Is it Ashing?

Monks receiving morning alms

3/24-25: Jungle (?) Trekking, Kayaking and Time with Mr.Elephant-

We set out on a jungle trek and within the first few minutes it became clear that it would actually be more like an introduction to slashing and burning jungle. Revelation number one: the last two weeks we spent in Laos were not cloudy from grey skies but grey from everyone burning the jungle in prime jungle burning season, which happens to be March. We got to see quite a lot of cut down jungle getting ready to burn, jungle on fire, and piles of ashy land. And, a little bit of the real jungle that is left. Ash floated through the air, day and night and people in the villages would just casually watch the hillside next to their home burn away. It was hard to see how fast the forest is being taken down here but also who is going to be the one to deny people the right to farm land so they can feed themselves.

After receiving a coating of ash and breathing in oxygen with a side of smoke we made it to a small village where we spent the night. The kids had their own little world in this village. Also, if you are bigger than a baby you can take care of a baby there, so little 4 or 5 year olds would be happily totting around little 1 year olds on their backs. All the kids loved having their picture taken and would giggle away when you showed them the picture of themselves.

In the morning we were greeted again by the gang of children and they pulled out a english/lao picture book which created much entertainment for both parties. We then were off trotting down hill to the river, once again through decimated forest for some white water kayaking. It was pretty mild kayaking although there were technically 6 rapids I think. And as kayaking came to an end we still had three hours left to hang out with elephants. We learned a little bit of elephant lingo before getting plopped on an elephants neck (although I can't say our elephant was a very good listener). I kept pushing the 'don!' (spray water!) but he seemed to prefer just flopping over sideways and fully submerging himself when he felt like it.



Looking for gold along the river apparently



This beastly thing is what they call a pig...



This was the point when I stopped to take a picture while our guide was up ahead desperately yelling for us. Turned out we would have to start hustling to make it into the green which was being sparred (at least that day that is) before the fire made it down the hillside to us. We then passed all of the land that was slashed and about to be burned and made it into the green and uphill as ash from the fire floated up to us.
Hillside of jungle turned to ash for growing rice.
3/21-22: Canoeing in Nong Khiaw-

We rented a canoe in Nong Khiaw after being heavily cautioned about currents and questioned if we had ever paddled something that floated before. We set off and despite their skepticism about two small white girls going upstream in a canoe made of a few boards we made it to a lovely little deserted sand bar. We did end up having to share with a herd of water buffalo though, but they were good company.

Canoeing back down we happened to hit bathing/swimming/clothes washing time. Kids came down with tire tubes and the parents came in sarongs toting shower caddies (just like everyone has in college!)
animals eating garbage (typical) out of a garbage can (super duper rare)